Have you ever wanted to add vintage photographs, botanical illustrations, or meaningful images to a handmade journal or book cover?

Image transfers onto fabric create a beautiful effect that feels integrated into the surface rather than simply glued on top. The finished result can be soft and grungy, clean and crisp, or somewhere in between—and it’s a wonderful technique for handmade books, journal pages, and custom book cloth.
Let’s walk through how to create image transfers on fabric using matte medium.
Watch the Tutorial
Supplies You’ll Need
Gather these materials before getting started:
- Matte medium (Golden, Liquitex, or Utrecht all work well)
- Spray bottle with water
- Flat brush
- Bone folder (or spoon/baren for burnishing)
- Fabric
- Laser-printed image
- Iron
- Paper towels or cloth for cleanup
Optional but helpful:
- Magic Eraser
- Brayer
- Tweezers
Choosing the Right Fabric
Not all fabrics behave the same way with image transfers.
The best fabrics are:
✓ Tightly woven cotton
✓ Muslin
✓ Linen
✓ Duck cloth/canvas
✓ Quilting cotton


Avoid:
✗ Loosely woven fabrics (such as drop cloths)
✗ Polyester or nylon fabrics
Muslin is one of my favorite options because it’s inexpensive and forgiving while you’re learning.
You can use bleached white muslin, unbleached muslin, tea-dyed fabric, or even patterned fabrics if you want a different effect.
Choosing Your Image
For best results:
- Use a laser print (black-and-white or color)
- Print on regular copier paper
- Choose images with good contrast
- Reverse any text before printing
If you don’t own a laser printer, office supply stores can usually make laser copies for you.
A few tips:
- Avoid coated or glossy paper
- Cut closely around your image
- Less excess paper means less rubbing later


Step 1: Prepare the Fabric
Iron your fabric first so it’s smooth and wrinkle-free.
Lay it on your work surface and decide where you’d like your image placed—especially if you’re planning for a book cover layout.
Step 2: Apply Matte Medium
This is where many people run into trouble.
The key: don’t be stingy with the matte medium.
Brush matte medium directly onto the printed side of your image.

You want:
✓ Enough to clearly see a wet coating
You don’t want:
✗ A super thin layer
✗ Thick puddles
Think of it like buttering toast generously—not scraping on the thinnest possible layer.
Step 3: Place and Burnish the Image
Carefully place the image face-down onto the fabric.

Starting in the center and moving outward:
- Burnish using a bone folder, spoon, or baren
- Apply firm pressure
- Make sure the image fully adheres
If you can see moisture coming through the back of the paper, that’s usually a good sign.
Step 4: Let It Dry Completely
This step matters.
Leave the image to dry:
- Minimum: 2 hours
- Recommended: Overnight
Drying time varies based on humidity and temperature, so patience really helps here.
Step 5: Remove the Paper
Spritz the paper with water and let it soak briefly.
Then use the pads of your fingers to gently rub in circles.
You’ll notice:
- Paper fibers rolling off
- Ink remaining behind on the fabric
Work in layers.
Don’t try removing everything at once.
Most transfers need around 4–5 passes before all the paper comes away.
Step 6: Remove the Final Haze
Once dry, you may notice a slightly cloudy appearance.
This is normal.
To remove it:
- Spritz lightly with water again
- Rub gently with your fingers
Or:
- Use a damp Magic Eraser very lightly
Keep checking with your fingertips. If you still feel paper fibers, continue gently removing them.
Ways to Use Fabric Image Transfers
Image transfers work beautifully:
- On book covers
- Inside journals
- On handmade book cloth
- As collage elements
- On fabric books
- On mixed-media pages


One of the things I love most is how image transfers feel integrated into the page rather than sitting on top of it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an inkjet printer?
Laser prints work best.
Some people have experimented with inkjet prints after allowing them to dry for several days, but results vary.
Can I use magazine images?
Not directly.
Instead, make a laser copy of the magazine image first.
Can I seal the finished transfer?
You can, although it’s optional.
If sealing, try:
- Matte medium
- Acrylic spray sealers
- Acrylic fixative sprays
Is it permanent?
Yes. Properly transferred images can last for many years.
Can it be washed?
Hand washing would likely be safest, although machine washing hasn’t really been tested extensively.
Final Thoughts
Like many bookbinding techniques, this one gets easier with practice.
The two biggest keys are:
- Use enough matte medium
- Be patient removing the paper
And don’t worry if your first transfer ends up slightly imperfect. Sometimes the little worn spots and grungy edges become the best part.

Hi! I’m Ali Manning
Years ago, I learned about handmade books, and ever since then, I’ve been hooked. I love creating new designs, learning about different techniques, and expanding my collection of paper. But what I love most about bookmaking is the community.
Through Vintage Page Designs and the Handmade Book Club, I’ve met thousands of other passionate bookmakers, mixed-media artists, and crafters. We all share a love of book arts and crafting, just for the joy of it.
I believe that bookbinding and book arts are for everyone, regardless of skill level or equipment. All you need is a little creativity and, of course, paper!
Thank you Ali and Amber! This was so interesting to watch! Can’t wait to try it.
I read and watched. Did you say – is the print going to be in reverse? I plan to use to make lavendar sachets with my wedding dress muslin. Thank you!